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Wiley InterScience

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Volume 22 Issue 4, Pages 291 - 303

Published Online: 24 Dec 2001

Journal compilation © 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Socìété Française de Cosmétologie


Published on behalf of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
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In vitro and in vivo evaluation of ellagic acid on melanogenesis inhibition
Shimogaki, Tanaka, Tamai & Masuda
  1 Life Science Research Center, Lion Corporation, Kanagawa, Japan
Correspondence to: Yoshimasa Tanaka
Copyright Blackwell Science Ltd
KEYWORDS
ellagic acid • melanogenesis • pigmentation • skin whitening agent • tyrosinase

ABSTRACT

Synopsis

The efficacy of ellagic acid (EA), one of the naturally occurring polyphenols, in inhibiting melanogenesis was examined in vitro and in vivo. When mushroom-derived tyrosinase, a metaloprotein containing copper, was incubated with EA, enzymatic activity tended to decrease with decreasing copper concentration. Enzyme activity partially recovered when copper was added to the inactivated enzyme. Tyrosinase activity in the B16 melanoma cells was observed to recover in a dose-dependent manner when copper ions were added to the medium containing EA. Based on these results, EA is thought to react specifically with the copper located at the active centre of the tyrosinase molecule.

Furthermore, when EA was applied for 6 weeks to brownish guinea-pigs, which have melanocytes in their skin, at the same time as irradiating for 2 weeks with ultra-violet light, skin pigmentation was clearly suppressed and the skin to which EA had been applied showed features similar to that of non-irradiated skin. These areas were irradiated again when the application of EA had been completed, and skin pigmentation occurred at the former site of EA application. In similar studies with hydroquinone, re-pigmentation did not occur on the sites at which hydroquinone (1%) had been applied. Based on the results reported here, EA is thought to suppress melanogenesis by reacting with activated melanocytes and without injuring cells.

Résumé

Le pouvoir inhibiteur de la melanogenese par l'acide élagique (AE), un polyphénol naturel, a étéétudiéin vitro et in vivo. Nous avons fait incuber avec l'AE la tyrosinase extraite de champignons. C'est une métallo-protéine contenant du cuivre dont l'activité enzymatique tend à diminuer proportionnellement à la diminution de concentration en cuivre. Mais l'activité enzymatique se restaure partiellement, lorsque du cuivre est ajouté au milieu. Par ailleurs, l'activité de la tyrosinase dans des cellules de mélanome B16 s'exprime de façon dependante des ions cuivre ajoutés au milieu contenant l'AE. Sur la base de ces résultats, on peut penser que l'AE réagit de manière spécifique vis à vis du cuivre situé au centre actif de la molécule de tyrosinase.

De plus, l'AE a été appliqué sur la peau de cochons d'Inde bruns durant 6 semaines. Ces animaux possèdent des mélanocytes cutanés, et suite à irradition simultanée aux UV pendant 2 semaines, la pigmentation cutanée disparait clairement. La peau sur laquelle on a appliqué l'AE montre des caractères similaires à ceux de la peau non-irradiée. Lorsque ces surfaces furent irradiées à leur tour en fin de période d'application, on observa la re-pigmentation de la peau à l'endroit de l'application de l'AE. Par des experiénces comparables avec de l'hydroquinone, le phénomène de re-pigmentation aux points d'application d'hydroquinone (en solution a 1%) n'a pas été observé. A la base de ces résultats, on peut penser que l'AE inhibe la mélanogénèse par réaction avec les mélanocytes activés, sans endommager les cellules.


DIGITAL OBJECT IDENTIFIER (DOI)
10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00023.x About DOI

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